Life in Cordova, December 2014

Quiz time! What are you looking at? (Answer at end)

Well, you can guess I’m interested in what’s happening around town, and trying to be a part of it while I’m here. First off, I’ve encountered nothing but friendliness. And of course in a town of 1500 everybody knows everybody, so a trip to the grocery is like a party. The teenager ringing you up is talking to the people in line in front of and in back of you, and by tacit agreement the extrovert in the group will inquire as to what I’m doing in the middle of Alaska buying grapefruit in a downpour, and before you know it, you know everyone’s name too!

 

There’s a mix of transplanted folks and native Alaskans, including indigenous families who go back for generations. They represent tribes of northern people who’ve thrived in this rigorous environment since before recorded time: the Chugach, Tlingit, Eyat and Aleuts. Because it’s so hard to get to, ancient or modern inhabitants have come to Cordova by choice I’m told, and that results in considerable contentment, not despite its isolation, but because of it.

A lot of Cordovans take scheduled time away in the lower 48, visiting family and friends, and taking a break from the weather. Air Alaska has great deals to the Hawaiian islands (who knew?), and there is common heritage, both ancient and modern, for many residents in the south pacific. Unfortunately, they must also travel to see a medical specialist.

Flying to Anchorage (RT 200-300$) is part of the deal if you live here–for a vision exam, a stress test, or an appen-dectomy.  A medevac flight team can arrive within 40 minutes if the weather is good. And you know about the weather already. That costs about $15,000, which insurance pays. I’m not sure who pays if the patient doesn’t have it, and ER care is still the only health care right in America.

Alaska has coastline in 3 different seas: the Pacific and the Arctic oceans and the Bering Sea. So it won’t surprise you to know that fishing is the primary industry in Cordova, and nearly half the population here has a connection to it.

The full harbor attests to the fact that Cordova has one of the largest fishing fleets in Alaska, contributing to the massive ½ of all seafood harvested in the US each year. Maybe Rob will tell me this isn’t unusual, but there’s also a clause in the Alaska constitution (written in the year I was born) that is dedicated to the sustainability of Alaska’s abundant resources. That’s cool.

But there’s not much fishing here in the winter. I did talk with a fellow taking in Tanner crabs in the Prince William Sound (overfished after the King crab population was overfished—the constitution not withstanding, evidently), but the silver coho, the red sockeye, and the King salmon this region is famous for, are done running. The dead bodies of salmon who used their waning energy to fight upstream as far as 300 miles from salt water back to the fresh water of their birth can be easily seen as ghostly outlines in the silty waters along the shore of Lake Eyak, restoring nutrients to the circle of life. Unfortunately, I mistakenly deleted that photo 🙁

There’s a quaint main street in Cordova, with several intriguing shops and Moonlight Madness every Friday in December, denoting they’re open until 9. One of my favorites is Copper River Fleece where I think I’ve paid their rent for the month with my purchases. Wonderful, locally crafted multi-layered vests and jacket made right there in front of you (sales clerks do double duty sewing the water-resistant wares). They apply trim, designed by local artists, to your specifications along collar, cuffs, hood, zipper. It’s not cheap, but it’s functional and chic, and it’s going to last forever. What more does an Alaska girl (or guy) need? Actually, you are not a member of this community unless you own several pieces. Absolutely everyone in town of all ages has these on everywhere I go, testimony to their exceptional wearability.

Got to love the Orca bookstore, which offers coffee and free internet, and an added bonus of local artist paintings on the walls. The first Friday of each month they have wine and nibbles to attract patrons. The sad news is that after 27 years they are closing their doors for good the end of this month. There’s also a charming multi-functional place called the Net-Loft, showcasing yarns and needle projects, including groups that meet for convivial craft time through the long, cold, dark season.

I’ve been a regular at the only dinner restaurant open this time of year, The Reluctant Fisherman, known here just as The Reluctant. Great view of the harbor and mountains, but since it only opens after 4 (I refer you back to sunset at 330), the view is mostly harbor lights in December. They make a mean clam chowder, seafood lasagna and a great beet salad. Tried the acclaimed burger at Anchor Bar (takeout—really I was out of my league there—my mother taught me to cuss with the best of them, but the sailors were ticked off about some local fishing regulation that occasioned language that turned my ears the color of that beet salad). The burger was good, BTW, particularly the ciabatta bun which is made on site.

International group, Legends of the Celtic Harp gave a concert, attended by about 100 people, which I figure is about 6% of the winter population. If my math is correct that equates to the attendance for Phil Dirt and the Dozers at the summer arts festival in Springfield. Three of the world’s best harpists with music and poetry that hushed the audience with magic. Bought several CD’s, none of which I can listen to here because I don’t have a player.

Earlier this month I was a guest of Kristel Rush, the doc at the Native American clinic, at a fundraiser for the HS basketball team. They have a huge travel budget because all the other teams are a flight or a 3 hour ferry ride away. I have a rare disease where my arm shoots in the air when I hear an auctioneer doing rapid-speak. Found myself bidding on the first item: golf-ball sized, hand-made truffles by local chocolatier Peter Hoepfner. In unusual flavors reflecting local harvests and his own creative streak —nagoonberry, salmonberry, cranberry, jalapeño—just one of them is a meal.

If Rob’s lucky, a couple of these chocolate orbs will make it home. Actually, they’ll all make it home—either in their pretty, colored-foil creches, or on my hips!

There’s a rec center here, with gym and a pool. They sponsored a Christmas bazaar with food and local artisans. Check out imaginative clay pieces at www.http://michaelandersonartist.com. He mostly does big installations but had his smaller works for sale here. Loved the flounder-topped casserole. Couldn’t think of where I would put it or it would be among my treasures. Settled for a charming shrimp-adorned coffee mug. Sampled lupia – a Philippino egg-roll. Also pelmini, Siberian pork-filled dumplings served with curry, cilantro, sour cream and sriracha sauce (which not even spell-check wants to attempt).

The hospital’s Christmas party was at The Reluctant, with real (wow was that good) crab dip for an appetizer, and a great prime rib. All this ocean water, but fish is out of season now so they serve meat. Go figure. Or, perhaps the meat is a treat when you live on the ocean and it’s fish, fish, fish. Being from land-locked Ohio I can’t get enough of the fins though.

Have been Christmas caroling for the long-term care residents at the hospital. First it was high school kids—very sweet, then the fire department—men who sing!, then at least 3 other community groups—fiddles, guitars, piano–I lost track.

So, it seemed, did the residents. In fact I was beginning to wonder if incessant caroling might be a form of Cordovan torture for our nursing home residents, who smiled and occasionally lip-synched, but appeared increasingly dazed and confused by the choruses aimed their way. Now that I think about it, since most retailers start playing holiday music at the WRONG holiday, Halloween, and keep it up non-stop until 1 minute after midnight on Christmas, by which time the entire population is addled from the repetition, I suppose the cause and effect here is exactly the same. Note to well-meaning holiday singers around the country: break it up a bit! Some of you take fall (We Gather Together, Blowing in he Wind, etc), some spring, summer. You get the idea. Let’s talk. I’ve got more.

I hope you are enjoying wonderful holidays with your family, and friends. I had a beautiful Christmas, even alone.

Face time really makes a difference. Had an unexpected gift of warm cookies Christmas Day from Kylie, the charming daughter of my upstairs owner’s girlfriend.

I am delighted to say I will be home, yes HOME for New Year’s, only 4 days away! …and already planning the next adventure. It must be genetic…

 

Quiz answer:

Frost! Really spectacularly beautiful, geometric swirls of frost on my windshield. Here’s another pic of it growing straight up and out from my door handle. Gives you an idea of the challenging roads up here when the temp drops. Wild!